Dry, brown spots don’t just stress lawns—they also stress homeowners. Especially when they put a lot of effort into their lawn and landscaping. When a homeowner’s yard started turning brown, they called landscaping contractor Lee Gilliam for help. The solution? Aeration and overseeding.
Start with Aeration
The first step in solving a browning lawn is aeration. Lee suggests aerating several times a year: early spring, midsummer, and the fall. Doing so allows the soil to breathe and for water, fertilizer, and grass seed to sink into the soil.
You can rent a lawn aerator for the day. These machines are self-propelled and dig into the soil, removing plugs and discarding them onto the soil where they can break down.
Compost is First
Start overseeding by spreading compost across the surface of the lawn. Use a shovel to cast the compost across the top of the lawn and use the back of a metal rake to spread it evenly. If there are any high or low spots, use the fertilizer to level them out.
Fertilizer is Key
You’ll need a good fertilizer to feed the soil and grass. An 18-24-12 NPK mix (nitrogen, phosphate, potassium) is great for overseeding as it will promote strong root growth for the seeds. Spread it over the lawn in the same way as the compost, raking out any clumps.
Overseed the Lawn
Next, fill your seed spreader with a mix of grass seed. Mixing grass seeds or purchasing a bag blend of different grass seeds will create a pest and disease-resistant lawn that will be adaptable through different conditions. In the Northeast, Lee recommends a combination of Kentucky blue grass and tall fescue. Use whatever works for your area.
Set the spreader to around 20 inches and spread the seed over the lawn. Make sure to avoid any areas where you don’t want grass to grow.
Protect it with Peat Moss
Protect and incubate the grass seed with peat moss. Apply it over the seed and mind the color. When peat moss is too dry, it will turn light in color. When it’s sufficiently wet, it will turn to a dark maroon color. Light coverage is all it takes, and you can spread it by hand.
Keep the Lawn Wet
Water the lawn twice a day for 8 to 10 days, and then once a day for the next 10 days. A midday watering is also helpful. Judge it by the color of the peat moss—dark maroon is best.
Resources
Start by inspecting the lawn and making note of problem areas. Lee suggests using compost to level out any noticeable high or low area in the yard.
To prepare the lawn to receive nutrients and grass seed use a core aeration machine or a tow behind aerator, which remove pieces of soil and opens up the compacted soil. Lee suggests aerating from left to right and top to bottom for maximum coverage.
Next cast an even layer of organic compost using a wheelbarrow and shovels. Use the backside of a metal rake to even out the layer of compost.
Use a broadcast spreader to evenly distribute a layer of starter fertilizer. Be sure to check the casting settings to be sure the starter fertilizer doesn’t land in a flower bed or on other plantings. Use gardening gloves to protect your hands while handling the starter fertilizer.
You can spread grass seed by hand or using a broadcast spreader. Lee recommends spreading grass by hand along the perimeter of the lawn. Lee selected a Kentucky 31 Tall Fescue and Kentucky bluegrass seed. This will keep grass from growing in spots where you don’t want it to.
Top dress your lawn with a layer of peat moss. This will act as an incubator. Lee uses the peat moss as an indicator of when to water the lawn. If the peat moss is dark maroon, it is holding moisture. If the peat moss is a dry light maroon color, then it is time to water the lawn.
Lee recommends watering twice a day for the first 7-10 days and once a day following the 10 day period.
