General contractor Tom Silva and carpenter Nathan Gilbert explain everything there is to know about building a non-load-bearing partition wall for host Kevin O’Connor. The three discuss how to layout a new wall, the different components of a wall, and how to prepare the wall for a door.
It Starts With Layout
The first step in framing an interior, non-load-bearing wall is performing the layout. The wall needs to be straight, plumb, and parallel to other walls. The most handy tool for this is a laser, but the process can be performed with a chalk line and tape measure.
Note: Red and blue chalk will stain carpets, fabric, and furniture, so use white chalk whenever working inside.
Then Come the Plates
There are two plates to consider. These are the horizontal boards at the top and bottom of the wall. Install these along the lines performed during the layout, ensuring that any studs installed between them will be plumb. For non-load-bearing walls, a single top plate is all that’s necessary.
Once the wall is framed, it’s fine to cut out the bottom plate where a door will exist. But, framing the wall with one solid bottom plate allows for easier alignment, so it’s easier to frame the wall and then remove the door plate later.
Understanding Studs
There are several types of studs to consider:
- Standards run from the top plate to the bottom plate, usually spaced 16 inches on center.
- King studs are similar to standard studs, however they’re installed on either side of a wall or window opening.
- Jack studs are installed inside the opening, flush against the king studs, and they run from the bottom of a header to the bottom plate. This additional stud provides more rigidity for the door or window and provides a framework for the trim to be attached to.
- Cripple studs are installed over the header, between the top plate and the header.
But What’s a Header?
A header is a horizontal component that’s installed over the opening of a window or door. They serve as support to strengthen and distribute the weight of the drywall and framing around the door or window, preventing any pinching or warping.
Stud Spacing
As mentioned, most walls are framed 16 inches on center. This provides plenty of support for drywall and allows for easy insulating. However, 24 inches on center is also suitable, but it requires a thicker drywall to prevent bouncing and warping or the installation of blocking between the studs for more support.
